Gorree Island , Dakar and the Pick-Pocket Gang

Tim Grey, Taylor and I (Craig) traveled to Dakar and Gorree Island Saturday. The morning began with extended negotiations for a 1-1/2 hour cab ride to Dakar. $11,000 CFA ($22.00 USD) got us to the ferry terminal.









The boat ride with at least 400 people and no observable life jackets or lifeboats had great views of the harbor and the City of Dakar. It's too bad it lasted only 20 minutes.











Gorree Island is presented as having a history of slave trafficking. In actuality, there were few slaves held on the island. The island today has interesting architecture, no paved roads and 1000 residents. There are buildings that pre-date Columbus discovering America. The downside of Gorree Island is the barrage of "services" being offered. Shopkeepers, shoe shiners, tour guides, "Mont Blanc" pen salesmen. It was impossible to go more that 30 steps without being offerred a product or service. Non-Merce only seemed to encourage them to follow and continue asking. I became so frustrated I began to say Yabba Dabba Do. That did not work either. Eventually after about 50 steps they would give up and in another 30 steps.... (They have an honor code of never interrupting each other, but once alone, you are fair game.












Rather than wait for the 2:00 boat, we decided to take the less crowded 12:00 Boat to Dakar. (Offering of services is not allowed on board)















The prices at Gorree Island were twice the normal cost so we went to the local market next to the train station in Dakar. (We checked for a train running to Thies, but none running on Saturday). At the market we ran into a hat salesman seen on the right with Taylor and I. His name is Alpha. He spoke English, Spanish, Wolof and French, all learned on the street. I don't believe he could read. Alpha helped Taylor purchase some local items to use at the cultural fair she will participate in when she returns. Alpha continued on with us for the rest of the afternoon as our "personal advisor".. and more. Dakar is known for pick-pockets.








We asked Alpha for a restaurant recommendation. He said, " yes, a great french restaurant,just a little walk." After 20 long minutes of walking the streets of Dakar, mostly uphill, in the heat of the day, we arrived and had a great French meal. We asked Alpha to join us and he agreed but would not eat. We were able to ask Alpha many questions about the Muslim faith. It was a great meal and discussion. Tim had a great idea of buying a hat on installment. We put 1/3 down and told Alpha we would return for additional installments at which time, we would expect our hat. He was puzzled, but agreed. Alpha is 34 years old, has a wife and lives with his family. (All Senegalese look at least 10 years younger than their age). On our return to the Train station, we encountered a group of men that began arguing with Alpha. It was a rather heated discussion in French. Later, Tim asked what the argument was about. Alpha casually explained that they were pick-pockets that wanted him to give us up. Alpha protected us. God Bless Alpha. We will see Alpha again.



The 3 hour taxi ride home was filled with gridlock, dust, choking fumes, great street scenes and a total shutdown of traffic to allow the President of Senegal's motorcade to pass (picture at left). He was on his way to Thies for a rare appearance. We made it back to Thies about 5:00 PM and considered our day a success.

Credits: Many of the above photos compliments of Tim Grey. Always ready with the camera and CIA trained in taking pictures without the subject being aware. (most of the time)

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Tim's Photo site is: http://www.timlingrey.com/timlinafrica1/


Tim's Blog Site is: http://timlingrey.wordpress.com/